Perfect-as-it- is Avgolemono soup

I like to gild the lily.  If something tastes great, I like to think if I add a pinch of smoked paprika or an extra dash of tabasco, I can make it better, make it taste absolutely sensational.  Sometimes this superfluity can lead to delightfully surprising outcomes, other times it can lead to disaster.

This mantra of 'if a little is good, then a lot is better' led to my downfall as an undergraduate Chemistry student.   Fondly I recall my Chemistry lab experiments at Uni where I often shamelessly pipetted too much hydrochloric acid, or other type of acid, into a solution and remaining agog at the toxic gases produced.  I even had my supervisors bewildered with the mysterious reactions that were occurring in the incubators of which I presided.  Invariably there was smoke, there were menacing hissing noises, dubious smells, dangerously overheated test-tubes, holes in my lab coat ...Alas, I was not a highly sought after lab partner!

But I'm learning that sometimes it is best to do as little as possible, add as little as possible to a dish and the results can be absolutely sensational.  Like this avgolemono, from Stephanie Alexander's the cooks companion - a Greek lemon-egg soup which needs to be served straight after cooking. It is certainly not one of those soups that can be reheated and served later as it tends to go gluggy.  This has to be one of my favourite soups.  And please, do not even think about buying the cartoned chicken stock!  Quelle horreur!!  Serves 4....

1.5 litres home made Chicken stock
90g long grain rice
3 large eggs
juice of 2 lemons
salt and pepper

Bring stock to simmering point.  Adjust seasoning and drop in rice.  Simmer for 15 mins until rice is cooked. 
Beat eggs and lemon juice vigorously (or use hand held mixer) till frothy. Add a ladleful of hot stock to egg mixture and continue to whisk..Remove stock from heat and allow to cool for 2 -3 mins. 
Swiftly tip in egg mixture, whisking to mix well.  Taste again for salt and pepper.  Serve at once.

Caramelised onion and vintage cheddar bread

It was a chilly, autumnal morning and something warm and comforting was in order.  Flipping through my latest Gourmet Traveller I found the following recipe for a scone-like savoury bread. Although it is called a bread, there is no yeast.  It's very rustic and accessible unlike some of their recipes which even for someone with altispheric tastes like moi, can be a little too intimidating.  No, this one just calls for onions and vintage cheese amongst other homely ingredients.  If you do want to make it a little more sophisticated, swap the vintage cheddar for a mix of fetta and tasty or halloumi.  Or instead of thyme in the caramelised onion concoction, use mint or oregano. Although, my daughter did complain that there just wasn't enough caramelised onion, otherwise she would have given it a 10/10. Wonderful with a light, brothy soup like  avgolemono....Serves 8

450g (3 cups) SR flour
160g (1 cup) wholemeal SR flour
100g cold butter, chopped
120g (1 cup) coarsely grated vintage cheddar
1/4 cup mixed fresh herbs such as chives and thyme
1 egg, lightly beaten
310ml buttermilk

Caramelised onions
2 tbs olive oil
3 medium sized brown onions, thinly sliced
1 tbs fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
1 tbs sugar
salt and pepper to taste

For caramelised onions, heat oil in a large fry pan and cook onion with bay and thyme leaves over medium heat till soft.  Add sugar and salt and pepper with 2 tbs water and cook stirring occasionally for 20 mins till onions are soft and charred around the edges.  Cool.
Preheat oven to 200 degrees C.  Line a large oven tray with baking paper.
Whisk flours in a large bowl for a minute till thoroughly aerated.  Rub in butter.  Stir in half the cheese and half the mixed herbs.  Add egg and enough buttermilk to mix to a soft, sticky dough.  Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead gently until smooth.

Roll dough between sheets of baking paper into a 30cm x 40cm rectangle.  Spread caramelised onions over dough, leaving a 2cm border along the far long side.  Sprinkle remaining cheese and herbs over onion. Roll up firmly from long side and transfer to tray turning edges to form a horse-shoe shape. Brush with a little extra buttermilk,

Bake for about 40 mins.  Stand on tray for 20 mins.  Serve.  If you can't be bothered with the soup, just open a beautiful bottle of Beaujolais, or any reputable red, and imbibe with pleasure! It would be just as warm and comforting.....

Wildfell Hall Butterscotch Peach Cake

It was destined to be a nutty day.  I had been to my in-laws' chestnut farm earlier picking chestnuts, which incidentally is rather gruelling.  You're stooped over picking chestnuts strewn on the ground, sometimes extracting them from their prickly encasings.  Despite wearing gloves cactus -like prickles invariably find themselves impaled in your hands.  So by the end of it, you're battling sore back and leg muscles and stubborn prickles.  Thankfully, the chestnut harvesting season is short lasting for around 6 weeks in autumn.

Anyway, later in the day inspired by the chestnuts I decided to make one of Belinda Jeffries' nut-based creations, for my monthly bookclub.  We were discussing Anne Bronte's The Tenant of Wildfell Hall, which was considered hugely shocking for it's time given the themes of marital abuse, divorce and alcoholism.  Published in 1848, it is supposedly the first feminist novel.  It made for a very scintillating discussion.  Because Anne is undeservedly the lesser known of the Bronte sisters and because she was brave and honest enough to bring to light the injustices suffered by women in the 19th century, I thought I'd name this cake after her pioneering novel.

If you want the heavenly effect of the butterscotch sauce cascading over the cake, the right sized tin is imperative.   Belinda used 24cm round cake time.  As you can see by the photo, my tin was a little too large!  Supposed to serve 8...

100g almond meal

90g SR flour

160g caster sugar

3 eggs

200g butter

1 tsp vanilla extract

Peach and caramel topping

80g unsalted butter

½ cup brown sugar

¼ tsp salt

3 largish, just ripe peaches

Preheat oven to 180⁰C.  Lightly butter a 24cm round cake tin, lining base with baking paper.

For the topping, melt butter in a small saucepan over low heat.  Add the sugar and salt and stir until the mixture is smooth.   Pour it into your prepared tin, tilting it so that the bottom is coated evenly.  You will need to hold it with a tea towel so as not to get scolded by the heat.

Leaving the skins on the peach, slice them into 6mm segments.  Lay the peach slices over the top of the caramel, layering as you go so the base of the tin is completely covered in peaches.

Whiz the almond meal and flour in a food processor for 10 seconds until well combined. Tip them into a bowl.

Whiz the sugar and eggs in the processor for a minute then add butter and whiz a little more to combine thoroughly.  The sides of the machine may need to be scraped down with a spatula so that all the butter is incorporated.  Mix in the vanilla.  Return to the almond mixture to processor and pulse briefly, just enough time for the liquid and dry ingredients to combine. Dollop the subsequent batter into the caramel and peach covered tin as evenly and gently as possible.

Bake for about 45 mins or until a fine skewer inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.  Leave it to cool for a few mins then run a blunt knife around trhe inside of the tin to loosen the cake.  Leave it another couple of minutes then invert it onto a serving plate.  For an extra sheen, brush the peaches gently with golden syrup.  Serve warm with a dollop of cream or scoop of vanilla ice-cream.  This cake really needs to be eaten on the day it’s made, for a superior taste sensation.

 

Boot camp gnocchi

Maybe it was the guilt of having a sackful of organic potatoes from my in-laws’ farm languishing in the cellar.  Perhaps it was the potent sense of wellbeing after a long, soul -enriching bike ride on a trail replete with nature’s bounty….but I decided to make gnocchi.  This involves boiling potatoes then peeling them whilst hot, before passing them through my manual rotary food mill.  It is a mammoth effort using this contraption which involves holding the long handle with one hand whilst rotating the blade with the other.  And when you’re using 1 kg of potatoes it is a workout.  It made me think of other manual kitchen activities that require exertion such as using a mortar and pestle to grind spices, kneading and rolling out dough, juicing oranges…it’s boot camp but with delicious results!

I first made gnocchi 10 years ago after following a recipe in a food magazine.  It was just potato and flour.  No egg.  And so I have never used egg and either has Stephanie Alexander.   To achieve the desired result of light and velvety dumplings  incorporate as little flour as possible.  So do not delay the shaping and cooking of the gnocchi otherwise the dough will become sticky and require more flour.  In this recipe I make a  neapolitana sauce using the last of the late summer tomatoes and bake in the oven with a layer of grated cheese.  When my son first looked at his plate he declared with disdain that he was not having any of this dinner.  But after some gentle coaxing, he tried some.  And just like his name sake in Seus’ Green Eggs and Ham, he loved them!  He even said they tasted like ‘clouds’.  The sheer effort of this dish was worth it….Serves 4.

Olive oil

1kg potatoes

Salt

325g plain flour

Neapolitana sauce

1 kg of tomatoes, peeled

¼ cup olive oil

2 tbs dried oregano

1 bay leaf

4 garlic cloves

Handful of basil

200g of mixed cheese, mozzarella, parmesan, cheddar

In a large saucepan, boil potatoes in lightly salted water for 15 – 20 mins till tender.  Drain and peel swiftly using a teatowel to hold potato if too hot to handle. Pass potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer directly onto work surface, then sprinkle with salt.  In the meantime, have a large saucepan containing at least 3 litres of water boiling in preparation for cooking the gnocchi.   With one hand sprinkle potato with some flour and, using the heel of the other hand, work it in.  The skill is to be as deft and quick as possible.  Continue until dough is a pliable consistency.  You may not even need to use all the dough.  When cooking water is at a fast boil, roll potato mixture into a long rope and cut into 1cm pieces.  

Reduce heat slightly so that water is simmering.  Drop in some gnocchi, but not too many at once as they do expand.  After a few mins the gnocchi rise to the surface.   Lift them with a perforated spoon, drain momentarily over the pot before laying them flat on a large roasting tray smeared with olive oil.  Repeat with remaining gnocchi.

Preheat oven to 180⁰C.  Make sauce by heating oil first.  Then pour in all other ingredients excluding the basil.  Cook for about 20mins on medium heat mashing the tomato as you cook it.  Adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.  Add 2 ladlefuls of the potato cooking water to thin it out a little.  Stir in basil at the end before pouring over the gnocchi in the roasting dish.  You may not require all the sauce, so keep the rest in the fridge for use at a later time.  Then sprinkle cheese evenly over the top before putting into the oven to cook a further 10 -15 mins when it will be golden and bubbly.  Cloud-like indeed!

 

 

 

Cauliflower and beetroot salad with harissa dressing

It’s become an obsession ….salad making.  Recently, I watched with a sense of wonderment and awe an episode of Ottolenghi’s “ Mediterranean Feast”which featured Tunisian cuisine.  To my shame, I had never heard of him until I stumbled upon this TV series.  Against a bejewelled Mediterranean sea or in the bustling markets of Tunis he beguiled his guests with his keen interest in their food.  I loved his warm and engaging manner, he is what Italians would call a ‘sympatico’ spirit.  I have read a little more about him since then.  ‘Otto’ is a regular food writer for The Guardian and renowned for being inventive with his flavours, incorporating less commonly used ingredients in his dishes. He challenges cooks not to be intimidated by the use of caraway, cardamom or verjuice. To me his adventurousness encapsulates what a culinary dalliance should be! In this episode Otto concocted a most magnificent salad, his take on the Nicoise salad, with a harissa dressing.  Harissa is a piquant chilli sauce used in almost all Tunisian dishes. Like wasabi, a little goes a long way.... I subsequently was inspired to create this colourful salad which uses caraway seeds and harissa as stellar flavourings.  Serves 4 – 6.

1 head of cauliflower, separated into florets

2 large carrots, cut into 2cm lengths

4 small beetroots, quartered

1 red onion, cut into 8 wedges

100g baby spinach

1 tbs caraway seeds

¼ cup olive oil, plus extra 4 tbs for dressing

1 tbs dried oregano

2 tbs roasted pepitas

2 tsp harissa paste

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tbs red wine vinegar

2 squeezes of lemon juice

Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 200⁰C.  Grease 2 roasting tins.  Thoroughly mix first 4 vegetables with olive oil, oregano and caraway, seasoning with salt and pepper.  Place on trays and roast for 40 – 50 mins till caramelised.

Make dressing by whisking olive oil, vinegar, lemon, garlic and harissa in a large salad bowl.  Then incorporate roasted vegetables with spinach leaves in the bowl.  Scrape any juices remaining in the trays to augment the flavours. Scatter with pepita seeds.

cold soba noodle salad

The heat continues and we're all positively fed up in Melbourne with hot days and nights in early Autumn.  The meteorologists are prognosticating these above 30 degree celcius temperatures will continue well into the next week.  Who wants to be standing over a hot stove in these conditions??  Well, my fetish with salads seems very sensible under the circumstances.  This recipe is from goop, an e-newsletter founded by Gwyneth Paltrow which contains information from parenting, to spirituality to healthy eating.  It's lately become a little too consumer-focused for my predilections, but some of the recipes are fabulous.  Like this salad which features soba noodles and coriander.  I altered the original recipe to include enoki mushrooms and roasted pepitas.  Thanks to Gwyneth I have discovered agave nectar, a natural sweet liquid from Mexico, the taste of which I prefer to honey and I'm told has a much lower GI.  But it is a lot more expensive, I hasten to add...  Serves 4

8 oz (226.80 g according to my weight conversion calculator) buckwheat soba noodles
1 tbs Japanese soy sauce
1 tbs agave nectar
1 tbs mirin
2 tbs rice wine vinegar
2 tbs toasted sesame oil
1/4 cup flavourless oil (perhaps corn oil)
2 tbs black sesame seeds (or toasted sesame seeds)
2 tbs toasted pepitas
100g enoki mushrooms
1/4 cup coriander, chopped coarsely
5 spring onions
1 red chilli pepper, chopped finely

Cook the soba in boiling water, according to packet instructions (4 mins usually).  Immediate rinse the soba under cold water and drain thoroughly. Meanwhile whisk all the liquid ingredients in a large salad bowl to make the dressing.  Toss in the cold soba with the dressing and mix in the rest of the ingredients.  Enjoy with a glass of ice cold sake!

carrot salsa

We’re all feeling a little desiccated and wilted in Melbourne, like 3 day old tulips in a quarter-full vase.  We’re actually experiencing a proper summer where the temperatures remain above 30⁰ C for days and days on end.  This not usual for our town where we’re languishing  in sleeveless tops for 2 days followed by an extreme cool change and we’re back to entombing ourselves in pashminas and peacoats.    Because we pride ourselves on being tres chic….Well, nothing screams more tres chic than an elegant summer salad.  This recipe for a very modern, light carrot salsa is from a distinctly un-chic  tome, The Cooking Book, which is furnished with 1000 recipes including coronation chicken rolls and couscous royale.   But don't let that put you off.  When I served this recently at a matinee, it was greeted with much fervour!  Serves 6.

5 large carrots, peeled and grated

1 red onion, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tbs pomegranate molasses

Handful of coarsely chopped mint

Handful of coarsely chopped parsley

 ¼ cup light olive oil/ vegetable oil

100g toasted pepitas

 Just combine all ingredients excluding pepitas, cover and set aside for at least an hour (overnight would be sensational)for flavours to develop.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Add pepitas just before serving.